I’ve fallen in love again. With a city, as usual. This time, it’s Naples, a city of golden stone and black flagged streets, streets already old when they resounded to the tramp of the conquering Roman legions. It’s a chaotic, exciting sprawl, with steep climbing streets, filled with racing, swerving motor scooters, the preferred mode of transport for everyone from immaculately suited businessmen to families of four.So when on my first evening, PAN curator Stefano Perno arrives to pick me up on his Vespa, I jump on. And if my eyes are closed for the first two minutes, once I open them, it’s an amazing sensation to be part of the city this way. And of course, we go for pizza. ‘My first Neapolitan pizza’, I sigh, breathing in the fragrance. ‘Your first pizza ever’, Stefano corrects me, explaining that it has to be prepared with buffalo milk mozzarella made fresh that day and baked in a stone oven with a wood fire.
I ask Stefano about the mountains of rubbish on the streets. He says that rubbish collection and landfill in Naples is controlled by Camorra, known as ‘the other Mafia’ of Italy. ‘If you really want to understand Naples, you have to read the book by Roberto Saviano, Gomorrah’.
Buying the book was the first thing I did next day, and reading it was a revelation.
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